Thursday, March 2, 2017

Newbie Tuesday: Gels, gels, gels! Chamomile & cucumber oil free gel moisturizer for dry skin types

We took a look at making a toner by including Ultrez 20 with a neutralizer, and we made a toner/oil free gel moisturizer for normal skin types by adding ingredients to pre-made gel yesterday. Let's take a look at making a chamomile and cucumber oil free gel moisturizer/toner both ways.

VERSION 1: MAKE A GEL, THEN ADD TO IT

MAKING A THICK GEL WITH ULTREZ 20
96.5% distilled water
1.2% Carbopol Ultrez 20
1.6% triethanolamine or 18% lye solution*
0.5% liquid Germall Plus

Add your Ultrez 20 to water and mix gently to get all the flakes wet. You'll know they're wet enough when they are transparent or clear in the container, like the picture to the left. Let sit for 3 to 5 minutes, then add the TEA or 18% lye solution. Mix well. If you'll be storing the gel as is, please add the liquid Germall Plus or other suitable preservative. If you will be using it right away in other products, leave it out and incorporate a preservative into the next recipe.

CHAMOMILE & CUCUMBER OIL FREE GEL MOISTURIZER OR TONER FOR DRY SKIN TYPES (version 1)
LIQUID PHASE
30% hydrosol of choice - rose water and lavender are good choices for dry skin
2% glycerin
2% panthenol
0.5% liquid Germall Plus

POWDER PHASE
0.5% powdered chamomile extract
0.5% powdered cucumber extract
0.5% allantoin

GEL PHASE
64% thick gel

Weigh your liquid phase into a container, mix well, then add the powdered chamomile extract and allantoin, and mix well until dissolved. Add the rest of the ingredients in any order, mix well, then pour into a bottle to be used as a toner or oil-free moisturizer.

If you feel this is too thick, add 10% more distilled water or other liquid, mix well, and see what you think. Or substitute 10% aloe vera for 10% of the distilled water as this will thin it down quite a lot.

VERSION 2: MAKE THE GEL AS PART OF THE PROCESS OF MAKING THE RECIPE

CUCUMBER & CHAMOMILE OIL FREE MOISTURIZER OR TONER FOR DRY SKIN TYPES (version 2)
WATER PHASE
51.2% distilled water
30% rose water or lavender hydrosol
2% glycerin
0.5% allantoin
1.2% Ultrez 20

NEUTRALIZATION PHASE
1.6% triethanolamine or 18% lye solution

EXTRACTS AND PRESERVATIVES PHASE
10% distilled water, slightly warmed
2% panthenol
0.5% powdered chamomile extract
0.5% powdered cucumber extract
0.5% liquid Germall Plus

1. Add all the ingredients in the water phase, except the Ultrez 20, in order into a container.

2. Add your Ultrez 20 to water and let sit for 3 to 5 minutes, depending upon how much powder you have used. (0.5% takes 3 minutes, up to 3% takes 5 minutes). Mix gently to get all the flakes wet. You'll know they're wet enough when they are transparent or clear in the container, like the picture to the left.

3. Add the neutralizer. This is a very alkaline ingredient that you add to the very acidic Ultrez 20 to create the gel. You can use an 18% sodium hydroxide solution, an 18% potassium hydroxide solution, or triethanolamine. Stir well until it thickens.

4. Dissolve the powdered extracts into about 10% slightly warmed distilled water and mix until dissolved. Add this along with the liquid Germall Plus and mix well. You're done! Yay!

If you find this product is too thick for your tastes, you can reduce the amount of Ultrez 20 you use to 0.9% and use 1.2% neutralizer. If it's still too thick, reduce the amount of Ultrez 20 to 0.6% to 0.8% neutralizer. Or you could add something like aloe vera at 10%, which will reduce the viscosity quite a bit - more than it would by just adding more water. Or you could add a hydrolyzed protein at 2%. It's amazing how a very thick gel can become very thin by the inclusion of just 2% silk amino acids!

As with other versions, if you find the colour of the extract annoying, you could use hydrosols instead  - start at 10% and see what you think - or try a colourless version of the extract.

Join us tomorrow as we take a look at making a chamomile & rosemary gelled toner/oil free moisturizer with Ultrez 20.

If you'd like to play along or if you've missed a post, here's a listing of the complete series...
Newbie Tuesday: We're making facial products! 
Shopping list
Equipment list
Let's start making facial cleansers! - Your skin type
Surfactants - what are they?
Meet the surfactants
pH of our surfactants
Facial products - the base recipe
Turning your cleanser into an exfoliating cleanser (part one) - physical exfoliants
Turning your cleanser into an exfoliating cleanser (part two) - physical exfoliants
Turning your cleanser into an exfoliating cleanser by adding chemical exfoliants
Modifying your facial cleanser into a foamer bottle recipe
Creating a facial toner (part one)
Creating a facial toner (part two)
Creating a facial toner (part three) - cosmeceuticals
Creating a facial toner (part four) - adding cosmeceuticals
Gels, gels, gels! Ultrez 20
Gels, gels, gels! Sepimax ZEN
Making a gelled toner with Ultrez 20
Making a lavender & chamomile gel moisturizer with Ultrez 20

10 comments:

Chrisstine said...

Hi Susan

Can i use carbopol 940? I dont have other choose

Laura Booras said...

Hi Susan,

I wasn't sure where to post this question, but since we're on the subject of toners and facial products...have you ever used Watermelon fruit extract? I got some from lotioncrafter, they call it Pepha-Protect. It says you can use it in the water phase but not to heat it past 60C or can be used cold. It sounds like a pretty great anti-aging ingredient. Wondering your experience with this ingredient and/or suggestions? Thanks!!

Susan said...

I made the gel moisturizer today with Rose Hydrosol, both the extracts, aloe vera, and also added chamomile hydrosol. It came out quite thick, even after adding the aloe vera and additional hydrosol. I had no idea what to expect from a gel. It is like the consistency of a very thick hair gel (but not sticky). When I tested it on the back of my hand, it absorbed/dried quickly and left my hand feeling oh so silky! It kind of reminds me of an under makeup primer, which makes the surface of the skin super silky and smooth. I can't wait to try it on my face in the morning! I can also see how this gel would be lovely under the eyes, since it does not wander from where it is applied. I just used the last bit of my regular cream moisturizer from the jar this morning ... Doing the happy dance!

jamil said...

Thanks Susan for your lotions and potions brilliance. I recently made a surfactant based facial cleanser with dermabrasion crystals which I thickened with crothix. I used the recipe posted for oily skin. Despite increasing the crothix to 4%, the dermabrasion crystals did not stay suspended in the cleanser and sank to the bottom. Is it possible to use the Ultrez 20 in a facial cleanser scrub? If so, how would you do so. THanks! Julie

jamil said...

Hi Susan,
Just read your post on sepi max Zen and it sounds like that would be a better choice....still not sure if it would solve the problem of the exfoliant sinking to the bottom. Thoughts? Would I just replace the Crothix with the sepimax?

Susan said...

Hi Susan,
I made two versions of the gel for dry skin. They feel nice and silky, but I do find them quite thick and a bit sticky, however once dried, the stickiness disappears. I have a question about Aloe Vera. In the previous post, you had indicated not to use Aloe Vera because of the electrolytes, however you suggested using Aloe Vera to make it more hydrating or to thin down the mixture. I may have misread it, but is it just before the neutralizer that you suggest not adding Aloe Vera, and then after its been neutralized, it is then okay? Thanks for your posts, I am really enjoying them, and trying new products :)

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Chrisstine! I'm afraid I don't know as I haven't worked with that one before. I think it is quite similar to Ultrez 20, so you could try it and see what you think. There are many data sheets on this topic - unfortunately, most of my links are dead thanks to Dropbox - so do a quick search on line and you'll be able to see what the company suggests when using that ingredient.

Hi Laura! I'm have been working with loads of cosmeceuticals in anticipation of my presentation at the American soap guild's conference and in anticipation of an e-book I'm writing, and this is one of those ingredients. I'm getting good feedback from my testers at the moment, and I'll have more about it soon. (So the short answer, it's looking great!)

Hi Susan! What do you think a few weeks later? I know I love the ones I've made, but I'd love to hear your opinion!

Hi Jamil! Yes, it is. Do a search for "ultrez 20" on the blog, and you'll find all kinds of information on how to use this gelling ingredient with surfactants for cleansers.

Hi Susan! In the post I noted this:

If you find this product is too thick for your tastes, you can reduce the amount of Ultrez 20 you use to 0.9% and use 1.2% neutralizer. If it's still too thick, reduce the amount of Ultrez 20 to 0.6% to 0.8% neutralizer. Or you could add something like aloe vera at 10%, which will reduce the viscosity quite a bit - more than it would by just adding more water. Or you could add a hydrolyzed protein at 2%. It's amazing how a very thick gel can become very thin by the inclusion of just 2% silk amino acids!

This is only about using aloe vera's electrolytes to thin out the gel on purpose if it's too thick when you're using Ultrez 20. Aloe vera will thin out the product no matter when you add it. I use those thinning properties to reduce the viscosity when it's too thick. If you want to use aloe vera, consider using Sepimax ZEN, which I write about in the newbie Tuesday series as well.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Jamil! You can try using ZEN as it's a great suspending and gelling agent. As with anything that thickens, you'll have to work to see how much to use to suspend the product. I will be writing more about ZEN as a thickener for surfactant systems in the next month or two when I get a chance. (I have written an e-zine on using ZEN with surfactants, if you can't wait that long...)

Susan said...

Hi Susan,
Thank you for the clarification on the Aloe Vera. I had not linked the 'electrolytes make the ultrez thin' and that's why we don't use electrolytes. Totally makes sense (I was worried about it doing something nasty). I like adding it later to get it to the viscosity that I like. Light bulb moment!!

Weeks later, I use this every day. I made two batches and gave my daughter one. I really like it, and my daughter likes how light it feels on her skin. It absorbs so quickly and I guess what i notice, but don't miss, is that 'lotion' feeling on the skin as in traditional moisturizers. If I am wearing makeup, I don't have to wait to apply it and my makeup goes on effortlessly. My skin feels so smooth all day long, no tightness or dryness at all. I slather it on a bit thicker at night after cleansing and my face feels awesome in the morning. Last night I used it after a facial scrub and my skin was so silky. So yes, I am still in love with it!

Preetiz Angulo said...

hi! If i try using xanthan gum as a gelling agent would i need to use less or about the same amount?