Tuesday, July 28, 2015

These are a few of my favourite things: Water soluble shea butter

As I mentioned in yesterday's post, I like water soluble olive oil! It gives me a chance to add some moisturizing to products that normally wouldn't contain oils, like body washes or toners. Today's favourite ingredient is similar to yesterday's - water soluble shea butter (INCI: PEG-50 shea butter). Like the water soluble olive oil we met yesterday, water soluble shea butter is an esterified oil that has been modified to make it more hydrophilic or water loving. We can use it in many different products from body washes to shampoos, toners to facial cleansers, and we can do it without using an emulsifier to make sure the oil stays in the formulation.

25% SMC taurate or other really gentle surfactant
15% Amphosol CG
12% lavender or chamomile hydrosol
18% water
10% aloe vera
up to 5% glycerin
3% hydrolyzed proteins of choice
5% water soluble shea butter

5% honeyquat or condition-eze 7
2% panthenol
0.5% preservative

5% Crothix
2 to 4% 60/100 jojoba beads

Mix together all the ingredients in the heated water phase. Heat to 70˚C and hold for 20 minutes. When the mixture is at 45˚C, add the cool down phase. Let cool to room temperature, then add Crothix at 1% at a time, mixing after every addition, to ensure the product is thickened to your liking. Add the jojoba beads - or other exfoliating ingredient - and mix well. Bottle, then rejoice! 

You can substitute water soluble shea for any of the recipes from yesterday's post or you can substitute any of the recipes from today with water soluble olive oil.

Related recipes:
Gelled after shave with minimally processed ingredients
Cucumber extract in an apres shaving spray
Maxed out toner for dry skin
Creamy exfoliating facial cleanser for dry skin
Formulating a body wash for dry skin
Low surfactant cleanser with oat surfactant
Extra hydrating body wash
Modifying the body wash with esters
Japanese themed body wash with esters

Monday, July 27, 2015

These are a few of my favourite things: Water soluble olive oil

I love love love water soluble oils! Water soluble oils are oils that have been esterified to become more water soluble. Some of them can be used as emulsifiers - like Cromollient SCE - but all of them can be used in water only creations, like body washes or shampoos.

One of my favourites is water soluble olive oil (INCI: PEG-7 olivate), also known as olive oil esters.

PEG-7 olivate is an odourless and clear to pale yellow ingredient with a pH of 5 to 7, an HLB of 11, and a shelf life of three years. It's soluble in water and alcohol and dispersible in oils. It can be used as a light solubilizer for other ingredients like essential or fragrance oils, and it plays well with gels! Although it's a light feeling ester, it isn't a non-greasy one like cetearyl ethylhexanoate or IPP, and won't reduce the feeling of greasiness in your products. (If you use PEG-7 olivate instead of olive oil in your creations, it will feel lighter and less greasy than the same product with olive oil, but it doesn't feel less greasy on its own.)

I am a huge fan of this ester because you can use it in just about everything! It's used as an emollient, lubricant, anti-irritant, solubilizer, and thickener. It won't reduce foaming in your lathery surfactant products, and it will offer slightly creamier feeling suds, emolliency, and "oil free" moisturizing. It also acts as a thickener, although the thickening I've experienced has been very minor and I wouldn't consider it a true thickener like Crothix or glycol distearate. In my experience, it will thicken water based products, like toners or make-up removers slightly. And as an anti-irritant, it will increase the mildness of your foamy surfactants to make for a more gentle facial or body cleanser.

PEG-7 olivate is a fantastic inclusion in hair care products - shampoo, conditioner, leave in conditioner, styling gels - as an "oil free" moisturizer. You can use it in your cleansers as an additional cleansing ingredient - it's safe for your eyes! - and you can use it in toners or water based body sprays to increase the emolliency. You can use this in a moisturizer as your oil portion to create an "oil free" moisturizer.

51.5% water
2% honeyquat
3% PEG 7 olivate (water soluble olive oil)
10% SMC Taurate (liquid)
8% Amphosol CG (coco betaine)
10% aloe vera
10% chamomile
3% hydrolyzed protein
2% panthenol
0.5% preservative (Liquid Germall Plus)
1% fragrance or essential oil (optional)

Mix together. Package in foamy bottle. Rejoice.

Related recipes:
Using PEG-7 olivate in body wash recipes
Using PEG-7 olivate in shampoo recipes
Oil free gel moisturizer
Formulating an eye gel - version 2
Recipe round up: Make-up removers
Using PEG-7 olivate in a body wash (again!)
Foamer bottle facial cleanser
Combining esters in a leave in conditioner
Creamy exfoliating facial cleansers for different skin types
Another foamy facial cleanser recipe
3-in-1 body wash and shampoo 

Saturday, July 25, 2015

A few administrative things for a video game filled Saturday!

For the record, my recipes are pH balanced. Unless you're adding something really alkaline or really acidic, you shouldn't need to alter them. If you need to alter the pH of something, those strips really aren't great at testing anything accurate. I encourage you to get a pH meter if you're going to be altering the pH of your products regularly.

If you'd like to know more, please check out this post on testing your pH with tons of links

As a quick note, I answer comments and messages in the order in which they are received. You don't need to send your message to me repeatedly to get my attention. You're on my radar - I'm just really backed up at the moment. I can respond to quick messages during the week, but if you're asking for more than a few minutes of my time, you'll have to wait for the weekend for a more detailed response.

Please contribute your thoughts to this post - what's your favourite thing? The more ideas you contribute, the more I can write!

And please contribute to the blog by leaving a review of a recipe you've made! People who write up recipes may win an e-book of your choice!

I better run! We have Rated T for Teen video club today at 1:30 and I can't wait for today's Mid-Summer Day's Massacre!

Friday, July 24, 2015

These are a few of my favourite things: Chamomile extract

I love love love chamomile extract! You can find it in a few different versions - essential oil, water soluble powdered extract, and hydrosol. I prefer the powdered extract and hydrosol as I can't really stand the smell of the stuff. I think it smells a bit earthy and musty, which is something I just can't tolerate in my products. As the powder is less expensive than the hydrosol, I tend to go with it, unless there's a place where I'm worried about colouring. It can make a lotion go a bit beige at 0.5% in the cool down phase.

Why do I like chamomile so much? It's a great anti-inflammatory (an anti-phlogistic, meaning it reduces inflammation and fever), as well as being a good anti-oxidant, anti-spasmodic, and wound healer. I've seen claims it might ameliorate the look of UV damaged skin and reduce stinging and irritation. And it can reduce transepidermal water loss for up to 48 hours, which means it's a fantastic addition to any product for all skin types!

You can use water soluble powdered chamomile extract in any product that contains water soluble ingredients. It's a great addition to a toner, lotion, cleanser, body wash, and so on.

This is my favourite body wash recipe, but it's a bit complicated, so let's see if we can make something with fewer ingredients that's just as awesome as this one!

As it's getting harder to get ACI and I can't access polyglucose/lactylate blend any more, I'll have to find two gentle and moisturizing surfactant blends in their place. I think I'll choose SMC or SMO taurate to replace the ACI as it's a nice mild blend with good foam and lather. I'll use that at 10% in the heated water phase.

As a note, I could use solid SCI in its place as it has all those great qualities I love in ACI, but it's a pain to melt. When I have offered recipes with SCI in a body wash in the past, people have complained that they didn't get the same results at home, and I would hate to offer you a recipe that won't work for everyone, so I'm not using SCI here. If you wish to use it, use it at up to 10%, heat it with the other surfactants before adding the water, and be careful what thickeners you add to the mix as it will thicken things up nicely! 

I think I'll use BSB in place of the polyglucose/lactylate blend. BSB is a blend I get from Voyageur Soap & Candle that contains a lot of different ingredients. BSB stands for "baby safe blend", so you can use any baby blend you find at your local supplier's shop. If you can't find it, use any surfactant you have in your workshop!

I like to have a cationic polymer like polyquat 7 or honeyquat in my body washes to film form and moisturize. If you don't have this, leave it out and add 3% to the distilled water amount. I also like to have a hydrolyzed protein of some sort in my product to add extra film forming and moisturizing. I'm going to use hydrolyzed oat protein in this recipe, but you could use any other one you like here.  And I have to have some kind of humectant in the product. Glycerin is always my first choice for a body wash. It not only offers moisturizing to your skin, but it makes your foam and lather more fluffy! It's a two-for-one kind of ingredient!

You can add a water soluble oil to this body wash at up to 10% in the heated water phase. If you do this, remove 10% from the water phase to have the recipe balance out!

10% cocamidopropyl betaine
10% SMC or SMO taurate
20% BSB
21.5% distilled water
14% aloe vera
11% chamomile hydrosol
5% glycerin
2% hydrolyzed protein of some sort
3% polyquat 7

0.5% powdered chamomile extract
2% panthenol (liquid)
0.5% liquid Germall Plus
1% fragrance oil (white chocolate - yum!)
(additional) up to 5% liquid Crothix

Combine all the surfacants into a container and mix well. Then add the rest of the ingredients and mix well, taking care not to create too many bubbles. Let come to room temperature and check the viscosity. If it isn't thick enough, add 1% Crothix. Mix well. Add another 1% Crothix at a time and mix after each inclusion up to 5% Crothix.

Related recipes:
Dry skin body lotion with chamomile extract and hydrosol
Six ingredient body butter - evening primrose, oats, and chamomile body butter
Modifying the six ingredient body butter with chamomile and evening primrose
Six ingredient lotion - evening primrose, oats, and chamomile lotion
Modified shaving lotion
Facial cleanser with a ton of extracts
Modifying the low surfactant cleanser
Formulating a body wash for dry skin
After shave gel
Cucumber extract in an apres shaving toner
Under eye gel
Facial moisturizer with chamomile extract

Thursday, July 23, 2015

These are a few of my favourite things: Pumpkin seed oil

I'm a huge fan of pumpkin seed oil for a number of reasons. It's an inexpensive oil that's easy to find at many suppliers' shops. It has a nice balance of oleic and linoleic fatty acids with some nice levels of Vitamin E. It has a decent shelf life, and doesn't have a strong smell. It is a light to medium feeling sort of greasy feeling oil that feels very nice on my skin.

This one is a staple in my workshop. Some oils come and go from my workshop depending upon price and shelf life, but pumpkin oil is always there (along with soy bean oil and rice bran oil). I like the way it feels in just about any product in which I could add some oils.

You can use pumpkin seed oil in any recipe that requires an oil. (Question: Can you substitute one oil for another?) Try it wherever you might use rice bran, sesame seed, or olive oil.

I really like it in my emulsified scrubs as it offers a nice, less greasy feeling after rinsing. I use it in lotions and whipped butters. I use it in cuticle balms and sugar scrub bars. Yep, this is one of those oils I use in everything!

10% Rita BTMS-225
10% cetyl alcohol
20% cocoa butter
56% pumpkin oil
1% Phenonip
1% Vitamin E
2% fragrance oil
add sugar to preference as per the notes below...

Weigh all ingredients except the fragrance or essential oil in a heat proof container and put into a double boiler. Heat and hold for 20 minutes at 70C. Remove from the double boiler and put into your fridge or freezer until it reaches 45C. Add the fragrance oil, then return it to the fridge or freezer to cool further.

When the mixture starts to harden slightly on the sides of the container and gets a thick film on the top, remove it from the fridge or freezer and start whipping it with a hand mixer with whisk attachments or your Kitchenaid with whisk attachments. Whisk until it looks like chocolate pudding - this might take a little while - then add the sugar and whisk until well incorporated. Pour into jars and let sit until hardened.

If you want to use this for a body scrub, start with 100 grams of sugar per 100 grams of sugar scrub. You can increase it as high as 200 grams for 100 grams of sugar scrub - it depends upon your taste (I like it really scrubby, so I go for 170 to 200 grams per 100 grams of sugar scrub.) If you are using another exfoliant, you'll really have to play with it to see what you like.

Please note, you can substitute a variety of different emulsifiers for the Ritamulse BTMS-225, including Incroquat BTMS-50, Incroquat BTMS-25, Polawax, and e-wax, to name a few. Just use your chosen emulsifier at 10% as noted in the recipe above.

Related recipes:
Sugar scrub bars
Emulsified scrub
Whipped butter
Cuticle balm with Lipidthix
Making a light lotion
Zinc oxide lotion 

Wednesday, July 22, 2015

These are a few of my favourite things: Volumizing complex

I've been using the Volumizing Complex from the Formulator Sample Shop* in my leave in conditioner for quite a few years, and I won't make a leave in without it!

The INCI for this product is Water & Rice Amino Acids & Lactobacillus/Date Fruit Ferment Extract & Polyperfluoroethoxymethoxy Difluorethyl PEG Phosphate. The rice amino acids will work like hydrolyzed proteins as film formers and moisturizers with the smaller form being able to penetrate our hair shaft, the lactobacillus/date fruit ferment extract is something I have to study further, but it's the poly...thingie...phosphate that interests me the most! But I'm having trouble finding more information about this ingredient! (Click here for the data sheet!)

I found this in Cosmetics Business magazine about this ingredient. "It is claimed that the amino acids penetrate the cuticle, adding moisture and improving the strength of hair. The fluorinated material is said to bind to the hair, giving it bounce and volume, and the enzyme material converts saturated fatty acids in and on the hair into unsaturated fatty acids with a lower melting point, and these add shine and smoothness." This sounds really good, but notice the words "it is claimed..." or "is said...", which indicate that they're pretty much reporting a press release, not a study. Amino acids are good for our hair as film formers, and the enzyme material (the lactobacillus part) could be great for converting stuff, but this isn't evidence. The impression I get is that the poly-thingie-phosphate is a bit like Teflon for your hair - the hairs won't stick to each other, giving you more volume. (Don't quote me on that! It's just a thought...)

In a search, when I found products that used this ingredient, they were generally aimed at the curly haired amongst us. It is advertised as being good for curl retention and volume. It should be used in the cool down phase at 1% to 5%.

1% Incroquat BTMS-50
1% Incroquat CR
2% cetrimonium chloride

80% distilled water
0.5% polyquat 44

2% panthenol (liquid)
2% cyclomethicone
2% dimethicone
3% volumizing complex
2% kera straightening
3% lycopene bioferment
0.5% liquid Germall Plus
1% fragrance oil (white chocolate from Voyageur Soap & Candle)

Use the general conditioner making instructions for this product.

Don't know what these ingredients are? Check out the hair care products section of the blog to learn more! If you don't have an ingredient, check out that section to see what you could use instead! 

I really feel a difference in my hair when I use this ingredient. People notice that my hair looks curlier and I find that it feels less coarse. I do feel that it is better moisturized when using this ingredient than without. This is definitely one of my favourite things!

*Please note that I receive free samples of ingredients from the Formulator Sample Shop. I am not obgliated to write about them, nor do I feel I have to be nice in my reviews of the ingredients. I really like this ingredient, and wanted to share it with you! 

Related recipes:
Leave in conditioner with volumizing complex
Experiments in the workshop: Leave in with lycopene bioferment

Tuesday, July 21, 2015

These are a few of my favourite things: Foaming proteins

I've been experimenting with foaming protein surfactants over the last two years, and I still can't figure out which one is my favourite! I started with foaming silk surfactant (also click here), then foaming oat surfactant, then foaming rice surfactant, and recently foaming soy protein surfactant. These surfactants are foamy and lathery cleaning ingredients we can use in our cleansers, body washes, shampoos, or other thing intended to remove dirt and oil. They are very mild cleansers that are great for sensitive and dry skin, but you can use them for any skin type. Some of them are positively charged - like the soy - meaning they will be substantive or leave a light film on your skin or hair after rinsing.

I'm currently experimenting with these surfactants in micellar waters, and they are nice at lower levels of usage.

39% distilled water
20% chamomile hydrosol
15% witch hazel
10% foaming soy surfactant
5% cocamidopropyl betaine

5% honey matte
5% calendula extract (water soluble)
0.5% liquid Germall plus

Combine the heated phase in a heat proof container, like a Pyrex jug, and put into a double boiler and heat until it reaches 70˚C. Heat and hold for 20 minutes at 70˚C. Remove from the heat and replace the water that might have evaporated. Mix and allow to cool to 45˚C before adding the cool down phase. Add the cool down phase, mix well, then let cool to room temperature before bottling in a foamer bottle. This is very thin, so you really do need a foamer bottle for it. If you want to try thickening it with something like Crothix, you may thicken it slightly, but it will still be a very watery product because I don't have a lot of surfactants in it.

I'm not kidding when I say a 100 ml batch lasts me a few months. I made the last batch in October and just ran out! Only make a small batch of this - 100 grams - at a time!

Recipes with foaming proteins...
Creating a foaming rice protein cleanser
Creating a low surfactant facial cleanser
Modifying the cleanser with foaming oat protein
Another foaming silk cleanser recipe
Creating a foaming soy cleanser